Panel scratches, key scratches, and scuffs, refinished to your factory color code at your location. The depth of the scratch decides the repair. Text photos and we tell you exactly what yours needs, and what it costs.
Scratch work is a paint repair, and the standard behind it is the one you see here. Tap WATCH.
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Every scratch repair decision comes down to depth. Your paint is layers: clear coat over color, color over primer, primer over the panel. Where the scratch stops decides whether it polishes out in an hour or needs a refinish to your factory color code.
The test costs nothing. Run a fingernail across the scratch. If the nail glides over it, the scratch lives in the clear coat and polishing can usually erase it completely. If the nail catches, the scratch has cut through the clear, and no amount of buffing brings back material that is gone. That panel section needs to be leveled, primed if it reached metal, and refinished.
You do not have to diagnose it yourself. Text photos in decent light and we read the depth for you, then tell you the honest repair and the real number. Most scratches never belong on an insurance claim, and we tell you when yours is the exception.
Read the scratch, match the repair. Nothing more than the damage calls for, nothing less than it needs.
The nail glides over. Swirls, light scuffs, and surface marks that never reached the color. The most common scratch on the road.
The nail catches. The color layer is cut and the line shows white or primer-gray. Buffing cannot replace missing color.
Deep gouges and hard key marks. Bare metal will corrode if it sits, so this one has a clock on it. Primed, sealed, and refinished.
Impact damage with broken paint. The metal gets worked first, then the refinish. One visit, both crafts, one standard.
A key scratch is a different animal. It is deep, it is long, and it usually crosses two or more panels in one continuous line. That is why it is priced per panel and read from photos first: the length and the number of panels decide the work, and the color decides the stages.
The line disappears the same way it arrived: one panel at a time. Each section is leveled, primed where the key reached metal, and refinished to your factory code so the panels read as one unbroken surface again.
Photos of each panel get you the full number up front, before any work.
Paid out of pocket, a keying never touches insurance or a history report.
Body shops quote full panel resprays because that is how their process works. The damage is usually smaller than the process.
The whole panel is sanded and resprayed, often with blending into the panels beside it. Days in the shop for a line of damage.
The scratch is leveled and the smallest honest area is refinished and blended, at your location, matched to your factory code.
A scratch repair done right is invisible. That takes an honest depth read, proper leveling, exact color, and the patience to blend it in.
The price follows the depth, the length, and the color. A clear-coat mark and a keyed door are different jobs, and they are priced like it. Photos get you the exact number in minutes, and you approve it before any work starts.
The least involved repair on this page. Polished and blended out of the clear, often in under an hour.
Leveled, primed where needed, and refinished to your factory color code. Most are same-day at your location.
Each panel leveled and refinished so the line reads as one unbroken factory surface again.
The same factors apply to every scratch. Color comes first: a tri-coat finish takes more stages to match than a flat color. Then depth (clear, base, primer, or metal), the length of the scratch, and how many panels it crosses. A quote from photos is exact because scratch damage is visible. What you are quoted is what you pay.
Complete satisfaction or no charge applied. Factory color match, blended to read as one surface, checked in direct light before you see it.
Three taps, a real answer. Depth decides everything, and your fingernail already knows it.
That range is the honest read from three answers. The exact number takes two photos, and you approve it before a tool touches the car. Complete satisfaction or no charge applied.
These are two vehicles from the same week. Neither needed a new panel and neither went to a body shop. Both were scraped hard enough that the owner assumed the panel was finished, and both came back with the factory color still on the car.
Before
After
Before
After Look at the before on the gray one and you can read our van reflected in the paint. That is the working condition on a mobile job, and it is also the honest version of these photos. Nothing was staged, and nothing was shot in a booth.
A whole door taped off so one repair lands clean.
If the panel is pushed in and the paint is broken, the metal gets worked first and the refinish comes second. And if the dent's paint survived intact, it belongs with paintless dent repair, where your factory paint is never touched at all.
You do not have to know which repair your damage needs. Text the photos, and Myke tells you which craft it calls for, what it costs, and how long it takes. One conversation, the full picture.
Mobile bumper repair, scuffs and corners refinished at your location.
What repairs cost and exactly what moves the number.
The repair comes to you. Home driveway, office parking lot, anywhere in San Diego County with room to work. Text a photo from anywhere in the county and we'll tell you the schedule and a real quote.
What owners search after finding a scratch. Straight answers, and the photos settle every one of them.
Paint has depth. Reading it correctly is the whole repair, and the reflection is the test.
It tells you which repair you need. Drag a fingernail across the scratch: if it glides over, the damage is in the clear coat and often polishes out. If it catches, the scratch is through the clear and needs a refinish to disappear. Send photos either way and we confirm it before you spend anything.
On a steel panel, a scratch that reaches bare metal will corrode, and coastal San Diego air speeds that up. Aluminum panels and plastic bumpers do not rust, but exposed paint edges still lift and spread. Depth decides the urgency, which is exactly what the photos tell us.
Because dealerships sublet the work to a body shop, add their handling on top, and quote a full panel respray as the default. We refinish the damage your panel actually has, at your location, and the quote comes from photos of your scratch instead of a rate book.
Yes. Swirl marks and light brush haze usually polish out with no paint involved. A deeper single line from grit dragged across the panel follows the fingernail rule. If the whole panel is hazed, that is a polishing job, not a respray, and we tell you which one the photos show.
A scratch repaired right disappears into your factory color. A scratch repaired cheap comes back every time the sun hits the panel. Two finish options on every quote, a real answer in minutes, and complete satisfaction or no charge applied. If cheapest is the goal, we are honestly not your shop. If done right is, send the photos.
Then it is a hybrid repair, and it is still worth doing properly. The metal gets pushed back to shape with paintless technique first, and only then does any paint work start. That order matters more than most people realize, because the further the metal comes back, the less of your panel ever needs to be refinished.
The alternative, and what a lot of shops default to, is to skip straight to filler and repaint the whole panel. That is faster for the shop. It also means more of your original factory finish is gone, a bigger blend, and a bigger number. Pushing first is the difference between refinishing a patch and refinishing a door.
Run a fingernail across it. If it does not catch, the paint held and this is a straight paintless repair. If it catches, the clear coat is broken and the finish needs its own plan. We tell you which one you have from the photos, before anything is booked.
This is the step that saves you money and almost nobody explains. The dent is worked from behind the panel and returned as close to its original plane as the metal allows, exactly as it would be in a paintless repair.
Because the metal is already back where it belongs, what is left to refinish is a fraction of what it would have been. Less filler, less blending, less of your original factory paint disturbed. A body shop that skips step two paints the whole panel instead.
The area is leveled and refinished to your vehicle factory color code and blended into the surrounding panel so it reads as one continuous surface. Checked in direct light before it is called done.
The honest part: a hybrid repair costs more than paintless and less than a full panel repaint, and it is not always the right answer. On some damage the paintless result alone is good enough and we say so. On others the paint was too far gone and it belongs at a body shop, and we say that too. Send two photos and you get told which of the three you are actually looking at.
Straight-on and at an angle, in natural light. You get the depth read, the honest repair, the exact price, and how long it takes. A scratch never gets cheaper by waiting, and bare metal has a clock on it.